Up Again

It's hard to get things right the first time. 

On Top. June. 2012. 

On Top. June. 2012. 

Last summer I climbed Mount Denali for my first time.  I planned a ton, I asked for advice and read about the climb. I used the systems I had perfected on Rainier and elsewhere to inform my gear decisions. In the end, my clients and fellow guides got on top and back down safely. A success. But a few things could have been better. 

I should have left a few pieces of gear behind. I should have brought other pieces of gear. Some food was awesome, some wasn't. My balaclava sucked. 

After the trip I decided I wouldn't return to guiding. I decided that for the summer of 2013 I would pursue an internship in technology. While this excited me, I also felt.... like I needed to get back to Denali and climb it with better style. This wasn't in the cards. This feeling ate at me all fall and winter. 

On Tuesday I got a call from the guiding service I work with. One of my co-workers was injured and he company wanted me to take his place on an early Denali tip. Looks like I'm heading back in early may. And then heading to work in tech afterwards (mid June). 

I remembered... that after the trip I had a bunch of things I would have done differently. I remembered wanted to write them down... but I couldn't remember if I had. After poking around in my dropbox, I found a document called "Denali Notes for Me." The notes are crude, but I've found that if I try to take notes perfectly, it takes to long - and I just don't get it done. 

I cant wait to get back there, and climb with better style, better gear.

Denali Notes For Me: 

  • Get a new therma-rest - Neo Air
  • Leave shell at 14 or 10k (no need any higher) 
  • Bring bc microtherm jacket 
  • Bring hat better for helmet  
  • Figure out balaclava situation in advance 
  • Bring 1.5 L nalgene (insulate), and then a thermos and that’s it.
  • Gloves:
  • Plastic for shit buckets (12 at least)
  • Ligh/medium for everything – (bd legend)
  • New FA guides for summit or 14-17 and summit
  • Heavy glove for summit       (FA glove)
  • 2 pair hand warmer
  • mitt  (bd supper light mitt)
  • Bring shit to cashe in basecamp (tshirt, food, etc)
  • Lemonade mix
  • prosciutto
  • 2 pair socks
  • consider/look at red LL bean duffel instead of maximus 
  • consider -10 sleeping bag